Almost a week has passed since we began our journey back from Brazil, but so many realizations from the conference still linger fresh in my mind. The final Friday of the conference was, for me the most inspiring of them all. I attended the second session of a meeting of trade union representatives from around the world. Representatives from Norway to Nigeria took turns detailing the struggles their countries and their unions are facing as a result of the recent economic crisis.
The fallout from the collapse of the U.S. financial sector seemed to instantaneously ripple across the world effecting workers in every country. The power of unions in countries where they were historically unchallenged is coming into question. Organizing and membership have reached a veritable standstill globally because of the fear that even a union won’t be able to provide much sought after job security to workers. Powerful calls to action and personal anecdotes added to the already charged atmosphere of the room, and prompted the level of intensity that the forum is famous for.
After three hours of rousing, endearing and forceful deposition, I was sad to see the session end. I felt like I’d learned more about the effects of globalization on the workers of the world, and the salience of interdependence on a global scale than in the past week. So much of what the forum was meant to be seemed to crystallize in that one session, and for me the 6 planes, 2 days, 3 taxis, 1 bus, and 1 rental car fiasco it took to get there were all worth it.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Global public goods for global redistribution
At the far end of campus, in an elusive NAEA auditorium, I listened carefully to a staff member from the Association for the Taxation of Financial Transactions to Aid Citizens (Attac). His message was this: the path to global stability and equality is via the taxation of international financial capital and the spending of that money on internationalized health care and poverty relief. He cited that over the last 30 years, the world has seen a 10% shift in income distribution from labor to capital.
The Attac plan involves using the UN (in his opinion, the only legitemate organization) to provide oversight, and the IMF and World Bank to monitor and administer taxation of the transactions. The Attac representative charged forward, proclaiming that now, while the banks of developed countries are on their knees, is the time to push for this radical reformation.
It makes sense to me that free market policies have widened income distributions. And, I greatly appreciate Attac's message of equity and humanity. There is no reason that 25,000 people should die every day from starvation, while some live in $1m+ homes. But the question and answer session yielded some disappointing responses regarding details of the proposal.
When one woman asked how a powerless UN General Assembly and a power dominating Security Council could ever implement such a proposal, the response was that we need to reorder power relationships from the ground up (i.e. this years 100,000 WSF attendees should turn to a future 1m attendees, and so on). This was disappointing from a practical standpoint. Global poverty statistics are fairly widely known. I just kept thinking that everyone sees so many of those "Give $1 a day!" commercials, that at this point I feel like the impact of spreading that knowledge has its limits. Even if the knowledge and the forum can create that kind of awareness and consciousness, can that be done in the timeframe the Attac thinks is crucial?
I also see difficulties with reforming the IMF and World Bank, two semi-autonomous organizations, overnight. Historically, the fund and the bank have represented US interests: the Bretton Woods conference in many ways favored the US model for organizational structuring and the US used the fund to pursue geopolitical goals during the cold war (Ngaire Woods, Globalizers). When I brought this question to the table, the speaker mostly reiterated that it will take a long process of reordering of public opinion. How soon will it be that US voters will be willing to demand what politicians are sure to call a tax increase for everyone, even if it means providing for the disadvantaged?
The future for this cause looks grim, but I think that's where our responsibility starts. Not only should we be ensuring the basic needs like health care and education for global citizens, but a tax on international capital flows would discourage speculative investment, stabilizing developing economies. Like most problems discussed at the forum, the solution requires promoting fundamental values of democracy and equity, which somehow got lost in the shift to neo-liberalism. So, while I'm saddened by the apparent distance of the picture Attac paints for the world, I'm also excited both that the forum is a place for this kind of brainstorming and for the day when this possibility might be a reality.
The Attac plan involves using the UN (in his opinion, the only legitemate organization) to provide oversight, and the IMF and World Bank to monitor and administer taxation of the transactions. The Attac representative charged forward, proclaiming that now, while the banks of developed countries are on their knees, is the time to push for this radical reformation.
It makes sense to me that free market policies have widened income distributions. And, I greatly appreciate Attac's message of equity and humanity. There is no reason that 25,000 people should die every day from starvation, while some live in $1m+ homes. But the question and answer session yielded some disappointing responses regarding details of the proposal.
When one woman asked how a powerless UN General Assembly and a power dominating Security Council could ever implement such a proposal, the response was that we need to reorder power relationships from the ground up (i.e. this years 100,000 WSF attendees should turn to a future 1m attendees, and so on). This was disappointing from a practical standpoint. Global poverty statistics are fairly widely known. I just kept thinking that everyone sees so many of those "Give $1 a day!" commercials, that at this point I feel like the impact of spreading that knowledge has its limits. Even if the knowledge and the forum can create that kind of awareness and consciousness, can that be done in the timeframe the Attac thinks is crucial?
I also see difficulties with reforming the IMF and World Bank, two semi-autonomous organizations, overnight. Historically, the fund and the bank have represented US interests: the Bretton Woods conference in many ways favored the US model for organizational structuring and the US used the fund to pursue geopolitical goals during the cold war (Ngaire Woods, Globalizers). When I brought this question to the table, the speaker mostly reiterated that it will take a long process of reordering of public opinion. How soon will it be that US voters will be willing to demand what politicians are sure to call a tax increase for everyone, even if it means providing for the disadvantaged?
The future for this cause looks grim, but I think that's where our responsibility starts. Not only should we be ensuring the basic needs like health care and education for global citizens, but a tax on international capital flows would discourage speculative investment, stabilizing developing economies. Like most problems discussed at the forum, the solution requires promoting fundamental values of democracy and equity, which somehow got lost in the shift to neo-liberalism. So, while I'm saddened by the apparent distance of the picture Attac paints for the world, I'm also excited both that the forum is a place for this kind of brainstorming and for the day when this possibility might be a reality.
In the Church of the Poison Time
As a week filled with mass confusion and logistical misinformation comes to an end, I have come to the conclusion that the WSF is a lot like church. About once a year I go there to be surrounded by like-minded souls and to be buoyed by the spirit of a community of believers. Despite my leanings toward the secular, I sit in a hot pew with a paper fan and search my soul for movement. The minister speaks a language that I've heard before, but is still only vaguely familiar to me. It's unimportant. I'm not here for the man- I'm not even here for the message. I'm here to have my soul moved by the chorus of sufferance and pain and the melody of an existence where there are less shackles. It is in those moments when the spoken word resonates with the clarity of a universal language of justice and peace. Hallelujah.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Obama Drama
Not everyone loves Obama. Today brought the drama- at least for me. During the discussion in a pretty innocuous class on the lack of participation by "North America" during events following the US Social Forum (heard of that one? yeah, me neither), someone in the class asked the United Stater presenter what he felt about Obama. The presenter declined to comment, showing his uncomfortability and desire to stay true to topic. The class was not detoured- more general comments about Obama led to a small debate about the purpose of the WSF. Enter France into the discussion. Marie, a French woman (who also happens to be our hotel neighbor) expressed frustration, proclaiming that she didn't understand why the group wanted to talk about Obama- "he's a centrist, a conservative- the World Social Forum is about radicals."
I was in a difficult emotional place. I generally don't respond to the anti-U.S., anti-imperialist nature of banners and rhetoric because I see the historical truth to this analysis- especially in light of the U.S.'s atrocious interventionist policy in Latin American politics. And, I generally agree with the lady from France that Obama is a moderate- he is most definitely to the right of many of my colleagues politically. However, my soul was calling for rebuttal. So, I stated that even if Obama was a political centrist, the election of Obama was radical because it was an election of a person from a historically excluded group- and that is what I thought the WSF was about. Although she acknowledged that we were here to discuss inclusion of excluded groups, she said that she was friends with the Black Panthers and that the U.S. voters should have picked the radical.... wait for it.... John Edwards!
I was in a difficult emotional place. I generally don't respond to the anti-U.S., anti-imperialist nature of banners and rhetoric because I see the historical truth to this analysis- especially in light of the U.S.'s atrocious interventionist policy in Latin American politics. And, I generally agree with the lady from France that Obama is a moderate- he is most definitely to the right of many of my colleagues politically. However, my soul was calling for rebuttal. So, I stated that even if Obama was a political centrist, the election of Obama was radical because it was an election of a person from a historically excluded group- and that is what I thought the WSF was about. Although she acknowledged that we were here to discuss inclusion of excluded groups, she said that she was friends with the Black Panthers and that the U.S. voters should have picked the radical.... wait for it.... John Edwards!I didn't comment again, but in my mind I saw myself asking her if the Africans in France thought that the election of Obama was radical or whether France is anywhere near electing a candidate of African descent. Such a question could have provoked a lively discussion, but it is divisive, no? Instead I told the entire class that they could come talk to me after the discussion if they wanted to talk about my feelings on Obama. One took me up on it, and it was not Marie.
A young Brazilian member of PT, the left-wing socialist workers' party, came up to me and said that at first he was skeptical of Obama, but realized the big change immediately when Obama's first action was to halt the trials in Guantanamo. We had fruitful discussion in which we agreed that the election did in fact constitute a social movement, and that even this moderate president could lead to a shift in the view of the United States from evil imperialist to the more acceptable greedy capitalist. We agreed that what we are seeing is baby steps. For instance, a trade agreement with stronger labor protections is baby steps toward a better world, and we were both hopeful that such a thing is possible now. I'm not known for my love of babies, but any one whose first steps could help to halt the slaughter of trade union activists across the global south requires me to hold him up and protect him.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Fala Português?
The Forum is officially underway, and I'm almost overwhelmed just thinking about the last two days. I've met people from Germany, Zambia, Chile and Vietnam, and that was just today.
The morning began with a plan that was an at least doable if not wholly attainable schedule for the day. Matie, Jill, and I met Lowell at his hotel, and narrowly slipped onto the bus to Guama/UFPA, and that alone was a feat since Belem’s buses are like diesel powered torpedoes unleashed on this jungle/city. Arriving at entrance A1 was an experience in itself since the map, includes several “A’s”, but no A1’s. Lowell and I parted ways with Maite and Jill in search of a lecture titled “The Real World Social Forum.”
This among other endeavors of the morning did not quite pan out as planned, but like the heat, the morning’s discontent was broken by the eternally punctual rain.
This afternoon produced a tropical potpourri of discussion, idea exchange and learning. The most productive workshop I attended centered around corporate social responsibility, global alliances of labor, and international collective bargaining policies. An overzealous worker from one of Argentina’s most active unions presented an onslaught of proposals, ideas and anecdotes from his work, and a student from the university here in Brazil questioned the responsibilities of multinationals and foreign investors in developing countries.
I’m looking forward to a Friday filled with abacxi, downpours and knowledge up for grabs!
Another day, another experience and I couldn’t be happier.
p.s. abacaxi may be pineapple or avocado juice depending on your accent- tonight I got avocado.
The morning began with a plan that was an at least doable if not wholly attainable schedule for the day. Matie, Jill, and I met Lowell at his hotel, and narrowly slipped onto the bus to Guama/UFPA, and that alone was a feat since Belem’s buses are like diesel powered torpedoes unleashed on this jungle/city. Arriving at entrance A1 was an experience in itself since the map, includes several “A’s”, but no A1’s. Lowell and I parted ways with Maite and Jill in search of a lecture titled “The Real World Social Forum.”
This among other endeavors of the morning did not quite pan out as planned, but like the heat, the morning’s discontent was broken by the eternally punctual rain.
This afternoon produced a tropical potpourri of discussion, idea exchange and learning. The most productive workshop I attended centered around corporate social responsibility, global alliances of labor, and international collective bargaining policies. An overzealous worker from one of Argentina’s most active unions presented an onslaught of proposals, ideas and anecdotes from his work, and a student from the university here in Brazil questioned the responsibilities of multinationals and foreign investors in developing countries.
I’m looking forward to a Friday filled with abacxi, downpours and knowledge up for grabs!
Another day, another experience and I couldn’t be happier.
p.s. abacaxi may be pineapple or avocado juice depending on your accent- tonight I got avocado.
The WSF has been criticized for producing few practical ideas and instead concentrating on general criticisms of neoliberalism and imperialism. After newly two full days at the forum, I completely disagree with this criticism. Yesterday I went to a session on Palestinian grassroots organizing and the prospects for change in Palestine. The activity aimed to bring together solidarity activities from across the globe to discuss the aims of solidarity, current activities, and effective ways to move forward. Panelists/unionists from Palestine, Jordan, Haiti, and Mozambique added to a discussion about global solidarity, war in the Gaza Strip, and the election of Barak Obama. It was an opportunity to fine tune the core issues that are important to the Palestinian workers and unionists there, including a major discussion about the Palestinian Farmers Union (PFU) and how the war in Gaza has devastated Palestinian farms. Check out the PFU website: www.pafu.ps. A second session today added to debate and allowed participants to draw up concrete action plans including boycotts and divestment/sanction activities against Israel (among others). It is important to note that leaders from these groups made it clear that it the past, few concrete projects or campaigns have been produced from the WSF. They hope this year will be different. This is exciting.
I also attended a seminar that acted a space for groups to discuss the financial crisis. In the words of the moderator: “We will build a joint set of demands and strategies for creating a global public finance system that will support another world, instead of just pursuing profit." Unfortunately I was unable to attend the entire seminar. However, I was able participate in an interesting discussion about alternatives to capitalist banks, including cooperative and mutual banks. Again, talk of real alternatives, real ideas, and real projects. This is good progress in my books.
My only real criticism of my seminars is in the make-up of the participants. There were very few people of color at most of my seminars. The discussions were largely dominated by white Americans, white Europeans, and white Brazilians. As a forum which seeks to empower and inspire people of color, indigenous people, and other minorities, these groups should be part of these types of discussions and should be making connections with unionists and activists from the Global North and other parts of the Global South. My hope is that it will be different over the next few days. The WSF is a great space to bring together a variety of networks and ideas to build collaboration and cooperation at the global level.
Enough for now. :) I'm off to catch a glimpse of Brazilian President Lula's speech. Maybe there will be translators?!?
I also attended a seminar that acted a space for groups to discuss the financial crisis. In the words of the moderator: “We will build a joint set of demands and strategies for creating a global public finance system that will support another world, instead of just pursuing profit." Unfortunately I was unable to attend the entire seminar. However, I was able participate in an interesting discussion about alternatives to capitalist banks, including cooperative and mutual banks. Again, talk of real alternatives, real ideas, and real projects. This is good progress in my books.
My only real criticism of my seminars is in the make-up of the participants. There were very few people of color at most of my seminars. The discussions were largely dominated by white Americans, white Europeans, and white Brazilians. As a forum which seeks to empower and inspire people of color, indigenous people, and other minorities, these groups should be part of these types of discussions and should be making connections with unionists and activists from the Global North and other parts of the Global South. My hope is that it will be different over the next few days. The WSF is a great space to bring together a variety of networks and ideas to build collaboration and cooperation at the global level.
Enough for now. :) I'm off to catch a glimpse of Brazilian President Lula's speech. Maybe there will be translators?!?
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
After a certain point of being wet there's no turning back. Umbrellas become useless accessories, ponchos become just another layer of clothing stuck to you. Shoes can absorb and retain an astonishing amount of water turning them into canvas fish bowls, making your toes into shriveled up little goldfish. Ducking for cover under the nearest awning seems like the natural reaction. But, when caught in the middle of a torrential Amazonian downpour, surrounded by 100,000 others chanting, jumping, drumming, and dancing, who needs to run for shelter? The rain became just another reason to celebrate the day.
Four days after arriving in Belém, the festivities began. The first half of the day was spent in our usual manner, near the pool enjoying the sun, sipping rich coffee or a cool drink pouring over the catalogue of activities for the Forum. Thousands of self-organized events sponsored by hundreds of groups and we could only pick a handful. Or, as Stuart said "It's like the day when they post the new class descriptions for the semester before they all get filled up". Each of us made our own schedule of events to attend, then revised it, shared it with the others and then revised it again.
But enough planning, it was time to march. Lunch of fried fish at the market stalls and people watching led us downtown to the convergence area. Trots, greens, coms, punks, fems, petistas, sindicalistas, indígenas, mulheres que amam mulheres, o povo contra as barragens and lots of flags. A group threw straw hats from the back of a two-story high truck to the rest of us baking in the sun. A Brazilian TV crew interviewed Tami and myself about Obama's election, the first of many such questions we received during the march (no doubt helped by Lowell's sporting a bright blue Obama/Biden t-shirt). We inched up Avenida Presidente Vargas wedged in between the CUT (the Brazilian left-wing trade union federation) and a huge Greenpeace globe (in reversed orientation, of course). And then the rain...
"Em chover, em molher, estamos en pé pela luta!"
The rain became our reason for being there. A celebration of our Amazonian locale and a celebration of the thousands of reasons (individual and collective) that brought us all this way to fill the streets (How many of us? We couldn't see the front of the march, nor the end so who knows? Who's counting anyway). We marched on through more rain, with soggy clothes and buoyant voices. Groups of indigenous peoples, tattooed and armed with spears snaked their way through the crowd. Apparitions of the Mistica appeared and disappeared (though Lowell was lucky enough to get his photo taken with Her). Batterias pounded out a cadence (no Brazilian march is complete without drums). Pula, pula se voce votou p'ra Lula!
Well, anyway I'm no good with details, hopefully the pictures will give everyone reading a better sense of the scene. It's late and tomorrow the events begin so I'm off to bed. Tchau gente!
Monday, January 26, 2009
Finally reunited!!
This morning Lowell arrived! Since his hotel does not have a phone (what?!), we decided to just drop by the place and sure enough he was there ..uff!
After another buffet lunch and delicious abacaxi suco (pineapple juice) we decided to get serious.
The World Social Forum has tons of activities starting from tomorrow. Their main website, however, is inaccessible and shows ‘error’ all the time..hmmm some communication problems are inevitable, I guess?! So therefore, we decided that today’s mission was to physically get to the forum site. The forum is held at the two main universities: UFPA (Federal University of Para) and UFRA (Federal University of Rural Amazonia). We figured the bus was a good way to get there.
Taking the bus in Belém is an adventure on its own. The buses here drive like crazy. Whenever your bus passes you have to hail it like a cab, otherwise it will not stop. Tons of people are gathered on the sidewalk ready to jump in front of their bus..so of course we did the same.
After a 45 minute wild bus ride we got off at UFPA to register, only to find out that registration was held on the other site..UFRA. Arrgh, back on another bus! Once we got there we ran into our Dutch friend Peter… although he is a typical tall Dutch guy, what are the odds?? This time he did not, however, ask whether "can you eat this?", too bad though, I would have laughed!
Anyway, we got into a huge tent and the registration stands were set up according to language. There was no line at the English stand so the deal was done in 5 minutes! Great! We got our WSF bag, the whole program and a pass… very smoothly!
Tomorrow it all starts! I can’t wait!
After another buffet lunch and delicious abacaxi suco (pineapple juice) we decided to get serious.
The World Social Forum has tons of activities starting from tomorrow. Their main website, however, is inaccessible and shows ‘error’ all the time..hmmm some communication problems are inevitable, I guess?! So therefore, we decided that today’s mission was to physically get to the forum site. The forum is held at the two main universities: UFPA (Federal University of Para) and UFRA (Federal University of Rural Amazonia). We figured the bus was a good way to get there.
Taking the bus in Belém is an adventure on its own. The buses here drive like crazy. Whenever your bus passes you have to hail it like a cab, otherwise it will not stop. Tons of people are gathered on the sidewalk ready to jump in front of their bus..so of course we did the same.
After a 45 minute wild bus ride we got off at UFPA to register, only to find out that registration was held on the other site..UFRA. Arrgh, back on another bus! Once we got there we ran into our Dutch friend Peter… although he is a typical tall Dutch guy, what are the odds?? This time he did not, however, ask whether "can you eat this?", too bad though, I would have laughed!
Anyway, we got into a huge tent and the registration stands were set up according to language. There was no line at the English stand so the deal was done in 5 minutes! Great! We got our WSF bag, the whole program and a pass… very smoothly!
Tomorrow it all starts! I can’t wait!
"Can you eat it?"
Jungle Food
The elusive parrot
The elusive parrot
It's not a tarantula- just a giant spider...
Bugs!
The Guama
Bugs!
Cicero
The Guama
Sunrise
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Jungles and Beaches
We had an early start to a relaxing yet stimulating day. We took part in a morning excursion to Parrot Island, a small semi-flooded island a few miles offshore. The boat departed at 5am (with a 4:30am hotel pickup!) to arrive at the island in the gray pre-dawn. As the sky lightened and the clouds cleared, the parrots awoke. They squawked, circled around to find their mates, then flew away into the dawn. Afterwards the tour explored the small side channels of islands in the estuary. Then we went on a nature walk through the jungle. We were accompanied by a half-dozen rather eccentric Europeans throughout the tour, including an older Frenchman who was fascinated with parrot sex and a Dutchman who wanted to taste every and any jungle fruits, nuts, and bugs! Our guide was a crazed yet gentle older German man named Ciciro. He knew just about everything Amazon. Having spent over a decade raising a family in the jungle, he knew exactly what fruits to eat and which ones to avoid. We learned a lot during the walk and even scored an early high-protein breakfast (Stuart and I snacked on some jungle termites!)
After the parrot tour/jungle walk, the group returned to the hotel for a quick breakfast. We then headed back to the port to catch a "party-boat" to the beach. Having arrived the night before, Jill from the ILR Extension Office in Manhattan joined the team for this excursion.The ride to the beach was very rainy and windy. Luckily the boat had live music, dancing, and plenty of green plastic tarps to keep us entertained and dry during the storm. Be sure to check out the picture of Chad dancing with one of the sexy samba dancers. :)
The beach was very sunny. We enjoyed a a buffet-style Brazilian lunch: Spicy fried meats, rice, vegetables and kale, noodles, and seafood. We also took this time to relax in the sun and/or shade, to catch up with Jill, and discuss our plans for the upcoming week. After some time we got back on the boat and headed to Belem. During the rainy and windy trip, the boat was approached by dozens of very young children in canoes looking for sweets. A normal occurrence, many of the Brazilian tourists came prepared and gladly chucked plastic snack baggies overboard towards the children.
The rest of the day was spent lounging, laughing, and enjoying the Brazilian air and scenery. And while I am certainly tired now, I am also excited for the week ahead. We have a dynamic and passionate delegation here in Belem. The forum will be great.
After the parrot tour/jungle walk, the group returned to the hotel for a quick breakfast. We then headed back to the port to catch a "party-boat" to the beach. Having arrived the night before, Jill from the ILR Extension Office in Manhattan joined the team for this excursion.The ride to the beach was very rainy and windy. Luckily the boat had live music, dancing, and plenty of green plastic tarps to keep us entertained and dry during the storm. Be sure to check out the picture of Chad dancing with one of the sexy samba dancers. :)
The beach was very sunny. We enjoyed a a buffet-style Brazilian lunch: Spicy fried meats, rice, vegetables and kale, noodles, and seafood. We also took this time to relax in the sun and/or shade, to catch up with Jill, and discuss our plans for the upcoming week. After some time we got back on the boat and headed to Belem. During the rainy and windy trip, the boat was approached by dozens of very young children in canoes looking for sweets. A normal occurrence, many of the Brazilian tourists came prepared and gladly chucked plastic snack baggies overboard towards the children.
The rest of the day was spent lounging, laughing, and enjoying the Brazilian air and scenery. And while I am certainly tired now, I am also excited for the week ahead. We have a dynamic and passionate delegation here in Belem. The forum will be great.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Forte do Costelo, Cidade Vehla, the Shopping Center Iguatemi
Note to self: if you order 100 double-sided color copies in Belem without notice, a mere 45 minutes later you should expect 40 copies, black-and-white... but double-sided and delivered with a great smile and many obrigados. Thus started day 2. Success in my book.
Another success would be the decision to head to Cidade Velha (Old City), the oldest residential part of Belem. It was a colorful neighborhood, complete with street music that sounded to me like 1950s diner music in the United States... except in Portuguese and a lot more interesting. We wandered upon the Forte de Prespio, which was founded in 1616, and sits at the merger of the Rio Guama and the Baia do Guajara. Let me tell you this: this is the place to watch a storm come in- which it eventually did- sending us straight to....wait for it....the mall....wait for it...in a cab :(
Note to self: if you ask a Belem cab driver in Spanish what the favorite soccer team is, you'd better wait until the soccer game on the radio is inaudible due to the operation of the windshield wipers. But once you have his attention, he will be sure to tell you Payssandu is the team of choice and give the thumbs down to the two teams on the radio. Because those teams are losers, unlike Payssandu, which he described as similar in ability to the Boca Juniors of Buenos Aires. After sharing the love of soccer, it was to the mall! In the states, I would have been very upset with myself for such a blatant caving to consumerism, but this was an interesting place- if you like fishbowls and high-end goods. What I mean is that being African-American in Brazil has been an experience. People love the Obama, I can tell you that. However, if I were going to be honest with you- I felt on display at the Shopping Center Iguatemi, an elite consumer vaccuum of white noise, pizza hut and McDonald's cafe. Serves me right for entering, even if only to escape the rain. We debated whether people were looking at us or looking at me- we didn't reach a concensus, but in my 35 years of life, I've been able to tell when I'm the object. Then we discussed whether they were looking at my skin color or tattoos. Never got an answer to that one... but it didn't much matter when I went into the sporting store to ask for a Payssandu jersey. There is no color in soccer, except those of your favorite team's uniform.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Day 1
We've been in Belém since about 1:30 this morning. When we arrived we checked-in to Hotel La Massilia, which is located downtown. We spent the day exploring the city. The warm tropical weather is a welcome escape from the balmy Ithaca cold. After breakfast, we walked to Ver O Peso, a local market with all sorts of, imported and local, food and clothing. Chris and Dawn bartered for fútbol shorts and sunglasses, and Maite and Tami shopped for sandals.
After returning to the hotel for a brief rest, we set out looking for local cell phones in order to keep in touch during the forum. We ended up finding pre-paid phones at a local shopping center, something like a Brazilian Sears. The clerks who sold us the phone chatted with us, and gave us some information regarding the popular activities for local young people.
Then, we walked several blocks, to the waterfront, where we watched the sunset, ate oysters, and socialized with local vendors. Dawn introduced us to Luiz, from United Network Human Rights, whom she met on the boardwalk. He is also here for the Forum, and was excited to discuss the class relations in Belém and the possibilities surrounding the US presidency.
From the waterfront, we walked to a restaurant that served salad, sides, and a variety of meats. On the way, a man ushered us into an open-air building, where we were instructed in a latin circle dance. We walked home from dinner, full and tired, ending the evening with a relaxing discussion by the pool at the hotel.
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